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How to Make Basic Weapons
Intro Before we start it’s important for me to say that these weapons will not be as nice as the ones coming out of the Antioch Forge. Those weapons are something we call ‘generation 6’ (and even some are generation 7). You’ll be making a weapon that more closely resemble what we called a ‘generation 4 (or a 5)’. The reason I’m not teaching you how to make a generation 6 or 7 is because the investment needed into a weapon forge capable of producing them GREATLY exceeds $1,000 USD. So we’ll be making a hybrid version of the older style! We’ll also be utilizing some modern strengthening techniques so we can make a weapon that SHOULD last you for a long time! So if someone in Antioch asks you what generation this sword is, you can say something fancy like: Gen 4 Ultimate! This will be a European styled weapon. Japanese styled weapons are much harder and not a good idea for basics. We will be making a two sided short sword. These same techniques can apply to any length blue sword and even a minimal red. You’ll spend roughly $100 (probably more) to get these supplies together. Some supplies last for dozens of swords, while others go much more quickly. Weapon building is an investment. Sadly the only way you could get EXACTLY what you need to make one sword is to buy it from someone who has a stockpile. Materials So first off, you need to make sure you can find these stores: Essential for Build # Wal-Mart # Harbor Freight Optional for Build # Lowes/Home Depot – You can buy bigger cans of DAP here, better duct tape, carpet tape, and other building materials. # Jo-Anne Fabric – This place offers better fabrics for cheaper. # Meijer – Meijer sometimes carries ½” fiberglass driveway markers. It’s the only way I reliably know of to buy a single weapon core. (This store however is only located around Central Verdite. I do not believe it exists in California) Here’s what you’ll be buying at the essential stores: Wal-Mart * Ozark Trail blue camping Pad ** This is your main blade foam designed to absorb impact. * Gold's Gym 10mm Exercise Mat (Yoga Mat) ** This is excellent foam to make stabbing tips (To be competitive in modern fighting you’ll need a stabbing tip). * Strapping Tape ** This tape is what keeps the stabbing tip and seams from falling apart. * Black Athletic Tape ** Finishing tape. If you can find hockey tape it’s MUCH better! Get it in black! * Fabric ** You don’t need much at all. Depending on your sword: a yard will be safe (and probably overkill)! Make sure it’s black! * DAP Contact Cement ** Your main adhesive. * Carpet Tape/double sided duct tape ** You’ll need this to make your handle thicker and setup the stabbing tip. * Duct Tape ** Not 100% needed, but if you feel your sword needs reinforcement at places, this is a good go-to. * Sand Paper ** Rough grit preferred, but doesn’t REALLY matter. You’ll use this to sand the core and tape surfaces. Harbor Freight * Anti-Fatigue Foam Mat Set 4 Pc ** This foam makes up the swords base layer. It’s MUCH stronger than blue foam and keeps your weapon alive so much longer than it normally would without. * Thin Rope ** You use this to finish your handle. Tools that will make life easier: (Optional! …well no. Not optional! Go buy them!) * Carpenter Square ** Make sure one end is 2 inches wide and the other is 1.5 inches wide. You’ll use this wonderful tool to make straight cuts of proper width. (Should be at Harbor freight, Lowes, and Home Depot) * Utility Knife and Razor Blades ** Better than scissors for straight cuts. Don’t use it if you can’t cut along the carpenter square or are POSITIVE you can’t cut in a straight line. (You can probably get this at any store on the list. But if not it’s definitely at Harbor Freight, Lowes, and Home Depot) * Scissors ** Some cuts are easier/safer to make with scissors. Not the worst idea to have them around. * Sharpie Pen ** Marking is important! And if you’re uncomfortable cutting along the carpenter square’s edge, you can mark your cutting lines. (At any store on the list) * Hacksaw ** You’ll need this to cut the core. (if you don’t already have some kind of power tool that can do it). Make sure it has a blade without long teeth. *** Blades graded for cutting metal are perfect! * Some piece of wood/hard material that is ¼” thick that you can easily carve into shape ** This is the only optional ‘tool’ (I know it’s a material). You’ll use this to make your handle ‘oblong’ so it fits in your hand better and offers greater control. I really think you shouldn’t skip this. You’ll be making things that are roughly ¼” x ½” x (Pommel Length + Handle Length). Weapon Core You can use PVC and other older materials but they will not survive very long compared to fiberglass weaponry. If you can’t get a core at Meijer you have to order one! You can get them from many suppliers. If you just want less than ten you can get it at McMaster. You want the "Structural Fiberglass (FRP) in ½”." DO NOT BUY THE 10 FOOT LENGTH UNLESS YOU WANT TO PAY 70$ FOR FREIGHT SHIPPING. Mcmaster is not the cheapest option if you want to buy bulks of 10+. Here's a gallery of some of the materials needed: Blue Foam.jpg|Blue Foam contact cement.jpg|DAP Contact Cement DSDtape.jpg|Double Sided Tape Floor Mat.jpg|4lb Floor mat Square.jpg|Carpenter Square Strapping tape.jpg|Strapping Tape utility Knife.jpg|Utility Knife Yoga Mat.jpg|Gold's Gym Yoga Mat The Build. Step One: Marking So first off you want to figure out how long you want your weapon to be. This is just a generic technique guide that applies to all weapon style builds in some way so I’m not here to tell you dimensions. Here are the laws of marking: # At the bottom of the core you must first mark a section for your pommel. Allocate at least 1.5” for this. # Mark your handle space above the pommel area. # Mark your blade space above the handle area. # For your blade, mark it roughly 2.5” shorter than you want the finished product to be. # If your core has a pointed tip: DO NOT use the pointed tip as part of your weapon core. When you’re done it should look something like this: Step Two: Cutting the Core Chances are you won’t be using the whole core. So now you have to make use of that hacksaw you bought. Cut along the blade line you marked. Make sure this cut is as straight as possible or your core will be too dangerous to use. Here are the laws of cutting: # It’s good practice to use a facemask so you don’t breathe in the fiberglass dust. It’s not good for you! # Wear gloves! The dust can get stuck in your skin! It’s painful and super annoying! # Secure your core as best you can while cutting. A blade slip can end up in a finger accident! Step Three: Prepping the Core You need to sand the blade portion of the core. Most fiberglass rods have a smooth finish that makes for a weak glue bond later in the build. When you are finished MAKE SURE you wipe off the entire residue from the core and tip. The laws for core prep are as followed: # Wear gloves! The dust can get stuck in your skin! Again super annoying. # If you don’t remove the residue, nothing will stick to the core. (ESPECIALLY THE TIP) Step Four: Prepping the Handle (Optional) Even though I label this section optional… you shouldn’t pass it up! Making stable oblong handles creates easily controllable/faster swords. So take your oblong material and measure two pieces according to (Handle length + Pommel Length). After that you shape your material to conform to the handle and pommel section of your weapon core. Apply carpet tape to the oblong material and connect it to the core and wrap it in your hockey tape so it looks like this: The laws for Prepping the Handle are: # Do not cut towards yourself or any body part. You can slip and REALLY hurt yourself. # Don’t get impatient! Take your time because one bad cut can ruin your handle. Step Five: Prepping the Stabbing Base You’ll need your floor mat for this step! See the little jigsaw pieces at the end of the mat? Cut off one of those! After you’ve cut one off, apply a layer of carpet tape to the FLAT side. Also, this is the first time you get to see if you cleaned the sanding/cutting residue off your core well enough! (Seriously, did you clean it?) Once you make sure it’s DEFINITELY clean. Stick that piece of foam onto the tip like this so it covers the whole ‘circle’: You’ll then cut that piece into the same shape as the tip. Using scissors here is really recommended. Kind of like this: It doesn’t have to be perfect, but it shouldn’t be too big either. After that you need to tape it down with your hockey tape so it’s VERY compressed. Here are the laws of prepping the stabbing base: # If the cap is not compressed well: It’ll tear off and create structural failures within the weapon. # If the cap is too small: The core will tear into the foam and create structural failures. # If the cap is too large: The remaining processes may not fit together as well. Step Six: Prepping and Starting the Base You’ll need your floor mat for this step! Using your Carpenter Square measure out and cut strips that are .5 inches wide. You’ll need enough of these to be able to ‘oblong’ the entire blade like this: Once you have them cut out: you’ll need to get ready to use DAP. Please pay attention to the following paragraphs or nothing you do in this build will EVER work. The Laws of DAP safety: # If DAP gets on anything that is fabric, carpet, wood, etc. It will ruin it forever! AKA it does NOT come out! # DAP is flammable: don’t use it around flames. # DAP fumes are toxic. If you can’t work in a well ventilated area: Don’t work! Here are the laws of DAP use: # DAP will not bond right in extreme cold, heat, or humidity. # In order for DAP to work it must be applied to both surfaces. # After you have the desired amount of DAP applied it must sit for roughly 10 minutes before the pieces can be pressed together for a bond. # When applying DAP make sure it’s an even layer. # Too thin of a layer and it won’t be enough to stick. # Too thick of a layer and it won’t ever evaporate enough to stick. # Once you press the DAP’d pieces together they will bind Instantly. This means you have to be VERY careful when sticking things together because in 99% of the cases you only get one try. # DAP will need to be applied in two layers to most foams. (Because most foams absorb DAP) # You can tell if DAP is ready for a bond by checking if it feels tacky and doesn’t seem to still be a free-flowing liquid. # DAP Takes a few days to fully harden. So don’t use your weapon for roughly a week after you’ve built it. (In more advanced designs it creates structural failures if you don’t wait for this strength before continuing with the build) # Sanding the items that will soon be DAP’d seems to help strengthen the bond. Don’t forget to clean them after sanding! Okay! That’s all for the DAP digression. What you’ll do now is apply DAP properly to the strips you’ve cut out and the core. Remember that the floor mat will take two layers of DAP to be suitable for a proper bond. I’d also use the non-textured side of the floor mat to connect to the core. When you apply the layers to the side of the blade make sure they aren’t even with the handle. Here’s what I mean: And to help give the blade perspective: If it were laid out the same as the picture above it would look like this when it’s finished: I hope that makes sense! So when you’re finished the core should look something like this: It’s optional: But wrapping some tape around key stress areas can increase weapon longevity. Like this: Here are the laws of Starting the Base: # If you have to segment these pieces (meaning you need more than one piece per side) make sure they aren’t lined up on each side. # If you have to use segmented sections, avoid having the break VERY close to the tip (2 inches). # Breaks closer to the handle are generally fine. # When building with segmented pieces: make sure you tape over the ‘gaps’ in the foam to increase strength. Step Seven: Finishing the Base It’s not a horrible idea to let the foam sit for a day before continuing (so that the DAP can harden properly). You’ll need to cut out strips that are roughly 1.5” wide. You can cut them to the exact width of the core and foam you have if you want (If you do this step, remember for all blade and tip applications to replace the 1.5” number with whatever you ended up using). You should have pieces kind of like this: Make sure you cut off the little puzzle pieces left over. The 1.5” strip will be a little wider than the actual base. That’s okay! Don’t freak out just do your absolute best to center it. Strips that are thinner than 1.5 inch tend to be less structurally sound. And with this pseudo-blood groove you’re making, it’ll be less likely to hit hard. You’ll need enough of these to cover the blade on both sides. Apply DAP to the un-textured side and when dry: apply as if you’re rolling the foam onto the blade (in a way where there are no air bubbles. Like this: 72.png|Step 1 73.png|Step 2 74.png|Step 3 Remember to plan out how you make your blade. Your breaks should not be in the same spot along the blade. It should look like this: Also make sure the breaks aren’t in line with any breaks the side may have. Like this: 75.png|Always remember to never line up foam 'breaks' 76.jpg|Also avoid lining up blade breaks with the side breaks. Like this! Here are the laws of Finishing the Base: # Never have breaks in the foam line up from opposite sides. Having this will ensure your weapon twists apart! # While some imperfection is fine: If all the strips are not pretty identical… your sword will not be very good. It may not even pass! Try to keep things straight and balanced! # For added strength: wrap one layer of athletic tape just below the tip and spaced down the blade. Step Eight: Starting the Blade Now you need to cut out a strip of blue foam 1.5” wide. You’ll apply DAP to one side of the blue foam and also to the textured side of the sword you’ve been constructing. When dry: use the same technique in step 7 to apply the foam down the length of the sword. So it looks like this: (I don’t have blue foam, so I used white foam! Just pretend it’s blue!) Here are the laws on Starting the Blade: # If you gently sandpaper the areas that are to be DAP’d. The bonds tend to be stronger. Don’t forget to wipe them clean after sanding! # Make sure your blade foam is even with the base foam (Like pictured above) If not your weapon will be wavy and probably fall apart! Step Nine: Finishing the Blade Now you need to cut out ANOTHER strip of blue foam 1.5” wide. You’ll apply DAP to one side of the blue foam and also to the blue foam on your sword! When dry apply the new layer on top of the old like you did in step 8! When finished it should look like this: Here are the laws on Finishing the Blade: # If you gently sandpaper the areas that are to be DAP’d. The bonds tend to be stronger. Don’t forget to wipe them clean after sanding! # Make sure your blade foam is even with the base foam (Like pictured above) If not your weapon will be wavy and probably fail. # DO NOT sand the outside edge of the foam! Step Ten: Prepping the Stabbing Tip You’ll need to cut out two strips of your Yoga Mat, both 1.5 inches wide and the same length. Apply DAP to the ‘wavy’ side and when dry: press together like this: You’ll notice that there are gaps that look like this: Press the foam together until it looks more like this (And be gentle!): Here are the laws of Prepping the Stabbing Tip: # Attempt to align the waves of the foam so they fit together seamlessly. It makes for a better lasting stabbing tip. # Be gentle when you force the gaps out of this foam. You don’t want the DAP to stick in a bad position. # This foam also takes a light second layer of DAP before you leave it alone to dry. Step Eleven: Finishing the Stabbing Tip If you used a long strip for your stabbing foam, cut it into shape so it covers an area like this (it’s not DAP’d on yet. I’m holding it against the blade): Mark that area with your sharpie! (If you haven’t already) Now apply DAP within the area you marked and on one side of the yoga mat foam piece you made. When dry apply so it looks like this: From here you want to use a razor blade to shape that foam to look like this: From here you NEED to wait at least a day before going on to the next step. Here are the laws for Finishing the Stabbing Tip: # If you shape the stabbing tip too shallow it won’t pass weapon standards. Try to keep it straight with the blade! # If you don’t cut off enough, it’ll look stupid and be very hard to cover. Step Twelve: Strengthening the Sword If you missed it: You need to wait AT LEAST a day before continuing from step 11. If you don’t, all of this is a huge waste of time and money. Your weapon will fall apart early and you can come back here to be reminded that “Oh…guess I should follow instructions!” Okay! So what you’re going to do is break out that strapping tape! You’ll be applying it to the tip like this: That tape goes around the other side to do the same exact thing! After that you’ll do it on the other end and then one over the middle and down both sides. Like this: And that’s it. This little step keeps stabbing tips from ripping your sword apart! Laws of Strengthening the Sword: # Don’t put tape on the blade. It’ll hurt someone! # Make sure your strapping tape is as flat as you can get it. Creases in it can be sharp! # While you need to make sure the tape is flat/firm, avoid compressing the stabbing tip or it will likely hit too hard. Step Thirteen: The Pommel You’ll need to have a small strip of 1.5” floor mat and a slightly bigger strip of 1.5” blue foam cut out. You won’t be using a whole lot, so you may even be able to work with your scraps! To make a pommel you need to: # Apply carpet tape to the 1.5” floor mat strip and wrap it around the base of your handle. # Apply carpet tape to a scrap piece of floor mat and cap the circle you just made. (feel free to trim it so it’s more even!) # Apply carpet tape to the 1.5” strip of blue foam and wrap it around the floor mat. Keep the bottom of the blue foam even with the cap. Step Fourteen: The Handle Wrap your handle in carpet tape. Then tightly spiral the rope around the handle. After you spiral the rope all around the handle tape over it with hockey tape. The laws of The Handle are: # If you don’t wrap the rope as tight as possible, you’ll have a terrible handle that will twist in your hand Step Fifteen: The Cover If you know how to sew: The cover is usually as wide as the circumference of the sword + 1.25” or 1” if the fabric is stretchy. You’ll sew something roughly like this: Turn it inside out and slip it on and make sure it fits. If it doesn’t…well this isn’t a sewing tutorial! If it does! You can add either a pull string at the bottom or just tape it to the sword. Neither one is better/easier. Just whatever you like! The laws of The Cover are as followed: # Buy some kind of bottom-weight from JoAnn. It’s sturdier and you’ll save money because you won’t have to keep remaking the covers. # Make sure your cover is black. Antioch disallows any other color! Final Notes! Not every technique shown here is the best. Some better techniques require certain power tools (Like a router table/jig) and that’s not the goal here. I wrote all these techniques with a newbie in mind. I’m more than aware of the flaws anyone likes to point out here. I hope this helps you to venture into foam-smithing! FAQ * Q.) So what makes these weapons worse than the ones coming out of Antioch forges? ** A.) Armory weapons use higher grade foams and materials on every level and also have different construction techniques that allow the weapons to be thinner and faster. That doesn’t mean that weapons in this guide are a waste of time at all. IN FACT, many weapons fielded at Verdish practices are made from the styles in this guide. They are competitive and durable! * Q.) If I wanted to work with better supplies could I buy them from the Antioch forge? ** A.) Sure can! We'd sell them to you at the same cost I got them. * Q.) Do you plan on doing a guide to shields or other weapon styles? ** A.) I can if there’s enough interest. This guide took a long time to make! '' Category:Crafting Guide